The Beauty of Working with Asian Hair…

“Many of my Asian clients want that bright blonde, and yet they don’t realize the importance of a consultation. They have said (their words), that they’ve been left with “orange” hair. If someone comes in with previous color or even box-dye color, and they’re looking to be a level 8 – 9, then a couple of sessions is the best approach. Going low and slow maintains the integrity of their hair. If a client comes in with natural dark (level 2 -3) hair and wants a clean blonde look -- whether ashy or golden -- it will be achievable with the right products. Depending on the canvas that is given to me, their hair sets my boundaries. And this is why a consultation is key.”

Have they had any color in their hair the last three years? “This -- and a strand test – tells me what canvas I’ll be working with. I will then let them know what’s realistic and achievable.”

Will they have the time and patience for blonde upkeep? “Namely, are maintenance appointments manageable for them?”

What is their hair-care routine like right now? “This lets me know what products they’re using, how often they’re washing, and what products to recommend.”

Are they okay with warmth? “Our hair will always fade warm. That’s just how it is. They have to be okay with how it fades. If not, then I try to steer them away from blonde, or make sure they book a. maintenance appointment ahead of time.”

“My go-to grabs are Joico shampoos and conditioners. Drool! I’m a sucker for things that smell good, as are many of my clients. Not only does Joico do the job by protecting color, hydrating hair, keeping it shiny…the products smell amazing.”

“For shampoos and conditioners, I like to recommend the Defy Damage line, HydraSplash, Colorful, Color Balance Purple, and the Blonde Life line.

“For styling, I love Body Shake Texturizing Finisher and Beach Shake – both before and after I curl the hair. I find that using these on my clients gives them a longer hold for curls without that “hairspray feel.””

“Asian hair tends to be dry sometimes, but nothing a good masque won’t fix! I really like the Defy Damage Protective Masque.”

“Asian hair is more difficult to lift compared to others, because it is so dark; and most of my clients want ashy/cool looks – meaning, I have to lift them past orange/red pigments in order for them to have the look they desire. So most of the time I lift them up to a level 9.”

Use very, very thin sections -- saturation is key.

Remember that processing time will be much longer than others.

I tend to mix my lightener (Joico Blonde Life) a little runnier; that way, it won’t dry out while processing.

Don’t ever take thick sections on Asian hair; it takes paper-thin sections for their color to lift evenly.

“I love the Defy Damage ProSeries. I spray it on prior to my lightening to help my clients’ hair health, and for an even application!”

“Before styling, I always use Zero Heat and Humidity Blocker to protect hair -- because after bleaching, it’s at its weakest. Those help tremendously.”

“Since Asian hair is resistant to color, it’s often difficult to lighten, and can take a long time to lift. The majority of my Asian clients want hair that is lighter, fuller, and has mobility. They always want something lighter and brighter because their hair is so dark. Joico's color line is by far my favorite for Asian hair: From Permanent to Demi, Color Intensity to lighteners, they're all incredible.

LumiShine is excellent for a shiny, healthy appearance. The Blonde Life Lightener works great on Asian hair types, as it is so gentle yet gives a powerful lift. When coloring dark Asian hair, I like the ash tones from the Vero K-PAK Collection…if you want to elevate dark Asian hair while still controlling undesirable warm tones, the INB shades are a must.”

“Most of my clients want to know how to make their hair more voluminous, hold curls, and correct "flat" hair in other ways. I absolutely love using the Body Shake Texturizing Spray because it does a great job of giving the hair a lovely feel without weighing it down.”